Fabric classification according to weaving method

Fabric classification according to weaving method

Fabric can be divided into woven, knit, and daimaru (circular knit) depending on the weaving method.
The best way to classify fibers can be divided into two categories.

1. Is it knitted fabric? Is it fabric (woven fabric)?
Classification according to the method of weaving fibers
2. Classification according to raw material: artificial fiber or natural fiber

The second method, classification according to raw materials,
is not difficult because it is often encountered in daily life.
However, classification according to the method of weaving fabric is widely used in practice, so it may be difficult to distinguish unless you are working in the relevant industry.



Knitted fabric

Fabric woven in a loop shape with a single strand of thread

In practice, these are sometimes collectively referred to as knits.
Depending on which direction it is knitted, knitted fabrics are divided into two types as shown below.

Warp knitted fabric
Fabric woven to form continuous loops in the vertical direction.
Representative fabrics: Tricotta, Raschel..


Weft knitted fabric
Fabric woven to form continuous loops in the horizontal direction.
Weft knitting is divided into two depending on which machine it is knitted on.

1.Circular knitting (Daimaru)
Fabric knitted on a circular knitting machine
Mainly t-shirts, sweatshirts, sweatshirts & pants, etc.

If we explain the meaning of circular knitting (=Daimaru),
Dai means “wide” in Japanese and Maru means “round” in Japanese.
In Japan, it is called maruami (knitting with a round machine) or katoso (cut & sew).
In Korean and English, it is written as circular knitting (circular knitting belonging to weft knitting)

It is a fabric used to make commonly seen sweatshirts, T-shirts, sleeveless clothes, etc.
It consists of wales, which are vertical, and courses, which are horizontal.

 Features of Daimaru
The thread rotates in a circle to form a loop.
Knit in a circle by turning in one direction to form a loop.
There is a meandering phenomenon (twisting) in the fabric.

Good elasticity, breathability, flexibility, and elasticity



knitted fabric-tshirts-img

2.Flat knit (sweater)
Fabric knitted on a flat knitting machine
Mainly refers to knits, cardigans, etc.

Advantages of flat knitting  Disadvantages of flat knitting
Because it is knitted using the seam-in and seam-in method rather than the CUT & SAW method, there is no need for cutting and there is no waste of fabric. For clothing designers, it is relatively more difficult because they have to start the design from the fabric structure.
Knitting is possible with various structures (cable, jacquard, etc.) The MOQ is high so it is not easy for small brands to produce.
In the case of whole garment knits, the production process of sewing is reduced, making it easy to reduce costs, and there is no seam allowance, so it boasts a natural fit.

It is easy for the thread to unravel or break.
Pilling (fluff) is prone to occur
Poor shape stability

Very good elasticity,breathability,flexibility Knitting takes a long time and is expensive.
Wrinkles do not form easily Sewing, cutting, and ironing are difficult.




Woven fabric

It means commonly referred to as woven.
It is divided into three types depending on how the warp (=vertical thread) and weft (=horizontal thread) intersect.

plain weave
Fabric made by intersecting warp and weft threads one by one
It is the simplest and strongest structure among woven fabrics, but has the disadvantage of not being able to distinguish between front and back and that it wrinkles easily.

Main fabrics: Organza, chiffon, cotton, gauze, hemp, etc.

twill weave
Fabric made by crossing three or more warp and weft threads
Ridges and diagonal structures appear on the surface.
The steeper the ridge angle, the better the durability.

Main fabrics: denim, gabardine, drill, serge, etc.

satin weave
Fabric made by intersecting the warp and weft threads with 5 or more strands long.

Main fabric: satin fabric


woven weaving img3


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